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Caring for our rats
Date Magazine Title Topic
Feb 2005 Fur & Feather Fifteen Minutes of Fame Twig's win at Bradford Champs
2004-05 Rattitude (NERS) Introduction to Rat Genetics Twelve month series as six double-A5
June 2005 RatA2E (MRC) Water Bottle Cradle How to make a water bottle holder for convalescing rats
- RatA2E (MRC) Shelves and Perches How to make shelves, perches, ledges to leap off and nest boxes

This section is still under development, but will include information about keeping rats, including the way we keep ours. The basic sections listed below will be developed as we have time to work on them.

We have been keeping rats since January 2001, although have kept other small pets such as hamsters, gerbils, rabbits and guinea pigs for over 15 years. Rats are more intelligent and interactive than other small pets, and are also less likely to bite.

We currently have around 25 adult rats. We will probably allow numbers to fall slightly over time, to allow us more time with each of our rats as they enjoy a lot of attention. Most of our rats live in groups of four or more. Most rats do not enjoy living alone, and are much happier if they can have at least one friend and it doesn't cost much more to keep two rats rather than one. I know of more than one lone rat which has gone from being ill and neurotic to normal and healthy after being introduced to new cagemates.

We breed a few litters a year, concentrating on roan (husky), black and buff. We tend to wait until we have several reservations before breeding a litter, as we prefer to have good homes lined up for as many of the kittens as possible before they are born. This means that there can be a wait involved, but it is worth it - the kittens are handled several times a day from the day after they are born so are well socialised and tame. We only choose healthy parents with good temperaments. We have never culled, and have no plans to do so.

Rats are generally very active, and each rat requires at least 2 square feet of floorspace. We prefer to use wire cages as most rats enjoy climbing. Most of our cages are large ferret cages or cockatiel cages with deep plastic bases to prevent mess, although we do have some home-made cages, and a few tanks for ill rats or does with kittens. Each cage contains a variety of toys, such as large tubes, cardboard boxes, ropes and baskets, plus at least one draught-proof nestbox or small animal "igloo".

Is your cage big enough? Use the cage calculator and find out.

Female rats (does) are generally smaller and more active than males (bucks). They can be more playful, and in our experience are easier to train to do simple tricks or come to their names. Bucks are lazier and more likely to sit on your lap for a cuddle. I think bucks may be more suitable pets for children as they are slower and more solid. Bucks and does have different smells, but as long as their cage is kept clean, neither is unpleasant or strong.

We use a rabbit mix, such as Herbal Alpha or Burgess Supa Natural as the basis of our rats' diet. This is supplemented with dry cat food, dog biscuits, pasta, rice, vegetables, some fruit and other healthy snacks. Commercial rat mixes are normally fine, but it isn't a good idea to feed mixes meant for hamsters as they are too high in protein (and can cause scabs). Young rats under 3 months require higher levels of protein to help them grow. We provide this by feeding foods such as EMP, porridge, extra catfood and chicken. Does feeding kittens also have these extra elements in their diet to help them to provide for their babies.


Last updated: 13 August 2005 - © Ed & Deb, New World Stud - RETURN TO TOP